Coi is upgraded to three Michelin star
In January 2016, Daniel Patterson, one of the country’s top culinarians, Michelin star chef, passed the reins of his two Michelin-starred Coi to Matthew Kirkley, a Baltimore-born chef who honed his skills at Chicago’s L20. Less than two years later, the Red Guide’s anonymous inspectors have elevated the seafood-centric Coi to its highest accolade of three stars. It’s just one of over 100 restaurants worldwide to hold that honor.
The upgrade also makes the larger Bay Area the country’s fine dining capital in the eyes of Michelin, with seven three-starred restaurants, compared to five in New York (since 2018 guide droped) and three in Chicago (whose guide was released earlier).
The more striking narrative, however, is that yet another male chef has been elevated to the top ranks of the world’s oldest and most recognized restaurant guide, while yet another chef who happens to be a woman, Dominique Crenn, has been passed over.
Michelin has long maintained its stars are solely a product of the food on the plate. In the twelve years since Michelin arrived in the states, it has not found a single female chef worthy of its highest award.
Two restaurants joined the two star club this year
Single Thread, the Sonoma County tasting menu spot where Eater’s Bill Addison had a notably unfortunate service experience, and Californios, Val M. Cantu’s modern Mexican spot in the Mission, where the 16-course menu runs just over $200 after tax and service.
Four restaurants earned a single star: Corey Lee’s In Situ, Rich Table –– not surprising given it dropped off the cheaper Bib Gourmand list –– as well as two high-end sushi spots, Kenzo in Napa and Kinjo in Russian Hill.
Though stars are meaningful benchmarks for a variety of reasons, restaurants in the Bay Area have been occupied with the vast and ongoing recovery effort following the fires in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Lake County. Michelin’s choice to postpone its release of the guide was wise, as was the decision to bring it back just two weeks later as fires reached high levels of containment — the region needs tourists to return, and fast. Though only a handful of stars shine up North, the Bib Gourmands (Michelin’s starless acknowledgement of excellence) include many more North Bay restaurants like SHED in Healdsburg, Oenotri in Napa, and Monti’s in Santa Rosa.
Three stars, in Michelin parlance, means “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey;” two stars means “excellent cooking, worth a detour,” while one star indicates “high quality cooking, worth a stop.”
Here is the full list of Michelin Stars San Francisco 2018 :
Benu
Coi (new)
The French Laundry
Manresa
Quince
The Restaurant at Meadowood
Saison
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Acquerello
Atelier Crenn
Baume
Californios (new)
Commis
Lazy Bear
Single Thread (new)
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Adega
Al’s Place
Aster
Auberge du Soleil
Bouchon
Campton Place
Chez TJ
Commonwealth
Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant
Gary Danko
Hashiri
In Situ (new)
Ju-Ni
Keiko a Nob Hill
Kenzo (new)
Kin Khao
Kinjo (new)
La Toque
Lord Stanley
Luce
Madera
Madrona Manor
Michael Mina
Mister Jiu’s
Mourad
Octavia
Omakase
Plumed Horse
The Progress
Rasa
Rich Table (new)
Sons & Daughters
SPQR
Spruce
State Bird Provisions
Sushi Yoshizumi
Terra
Terrapin Creek
The Village Pub
Wako
Wakuriya