Having worked at some of the finest kitchens in the USA – Alinea, French Laundry and Per Se – chef Jordan Kahn made his solo debut with LA’s minimalist, much-loved Destroyer. His follow-up, Vespertine, is just across the road in Eric Owen Moss’s teetering Waffle Building. A lift deposits diners straight into the kitchen to meet Kahn himself, before being escorted to the rooftop to begin in the 20-something-course experience against the backdrop of a Culver City sunset. At a time when every other chef on the planet is raving about local ingredients, Kahn is doing the opposite: eat at Vespertine and you won’t know what’s on your plate, let alone where anything has come from. The otherworldly ceramics might bear bright red spinach or a slab of soft fruit laminated with sunflower petals, sparkling curls of something bright and white that turn out to be asparagus, or a fish dish with no sign of fish at all. The waiters, wearing uniforms seemingly inspired by The Handmaid’s Tale, are instructed to let guests puzzle through the menu by themselves. Kahn’s latest project is certainly the most controversial, talked-about restaurant among foodies right now.
Address: Vespertine, 3599 Hayden Avenue, Culver City, California, USA
Telephone: +1 323 320 4023